House rewires
New cable through an older home, or through the part of it that needs it, planned room by room around the people living there. Tested, certified and notified to building control, for homes in Sandhurst, Camberley, Bracknell and Ascot.
When a rewire is worth it
Cable does not wear out on a timetable, so age alone is not the reason to rewire. The reasons are what the cable is made of, what has been done to it since, and how it tests.
- Rubber-insulated cable, from before PVC became standard. The rubber goes brittle and cracks when it is disturbed, which is exactly what any new work does to it.
- Lead-sheathed cable, which is older still.
- Early PVC that has spent decades next to heat, above light fittings or buried in loft insulation.
- No RCD protection anywhere, often with rewirable fuses still in the board.
- Decades of alterations: spurs taken off spurs, junction boxes under the floor, sockets fed from the lighting, and three kinds of cable in one circuit.
Round-pin sockets, black rubber or fabric-covered flex, scorch marks and sockets that run warm are all signs worth an inspection. Much of Sandhurst and Bracknell was built between the 1950s and the 1980s, and some of those houses still have a good part of their original wiring, with everything since added on top.
Start with an inspection
Before anyone lifts a floorboard, it is worth knowing what you have. An Electrical Installation Condition Report (EICR) inspects and tests the existing wiring and records what it finds, circuit by circuit. Low insulation resistance, rubber cable, missing earths and damaged cable all show up in it.
Sometimes the report shows the wiring is sound, and the right answer is a new consumer unit and a few repairs. Sometimes it shows that patching it up would cost more than starting again. Either way, you decide with the results in front of you.
Older lighting circuits were often wired with no earth conductor at all. That rules out metal light fittings, and on its own is a good reason to look at rewiring the lighting.
Full or partial
A full rewire replaces every circuit: the cable, the back boxes and the accessories, and normally the consumer unit, so the whole installation is new and certified together.
A partial rewire replaces part of it: one floor, an extension, the kitchen, or the circuits that tested badly. It makes sense when the rest of the installation is in good condition, because the new work connects to it and relies on its earthing and protection.
If a partial rewire would leave new cable joined to old, or an old board in charge of new circuits, we say so and explain the choice. The written quote lists which circuits are being replaced, what is being kept and why.
Living in the house while it happens
Most rewires are done with the family still at home. The work moves through the house in an order agreed with you, so you know which rooms need clearing and when.
- Furniture goes to the middle of the room and is covered, or out of the room if you can manage it.
- Carpets and floor coverings need lifting wherever floorboards come up.
- Chasing walls makes dust. Rooms are sheeted, doors kept closed, and we clear up as we go.
- The power is off while circuits are being changed over. The programme that comes with the quote shows when, so you can plan around it.
An empty house is easier to work in, so if you are between owners or renovating anyway, that is a good time to do it.
First fix and second fix
A rewire happens in two stages, with the making good in between.
- First fix. Floorboards come up, walls are chased and new cable is run to every point. Cable goes through holes drilled in the middle of the joists, not notches cut in the top where a floorboard nail can reach it. A new back box goes in for every socket and switch.
- Second fix. Sockets, switches and light fittings go on, the circuits are connected to the consumer unit, and everything is tested.
Cable buried in a wall runs straight up, down or across from the switch or socket it serves. These are the safe zones, and they mean anyone drilling into the wall later can tell where the cable is likely to be. Cable in the zones also has 30 mA RCD protection.
Section Wall and floor, old and new runs
- AOld cable run at an angle. This socket was fed from a light switch.
- BRubber cable in notches cut into the tops of the joists, where a floorboard nail can reach it.
- CJunction box under the floor, out of sight and hard to reach.
- DNew twin and earth, through holes drilled in the middle of the joists.
- EStraight drop to the switch, inside the safe zone.
- FNew back box and socket, where you agreed it before first fix.
- GConsumer unit. Every new circuit starts here.
Cable Old rubber twin and modern T&E
- AOlder colours, red for line and black for neutral, in rubber insulation.
- BNo earth conductor. Older lighting circuits were often wired like this.
- CBrittle rubber. It cracks when the cable is moved.
- DGrey PVC sheath.
- EBrown line and blue neutral, each insulated.
- FBare earth conductor (the CPC), between the two.
- GGreen and yellow sleeving goes on the earth wherever the sheath is stripped back.
Making good
Chases are filled, back boxes set flush, and floorboards screwed back down so they can be lifted again later without damaging the cable underneath.
Filled chases still need finishing and painting. The quote says exactly what making good includes and what is left for a plasterer or decorator, so nobody is surprised.
If a new kitchen, bathroom or extension is on the way, tell us early. Rewiring before the new surfaces go in saves cutting into them afterwards.
Testing and certificates
Each new circuit is tested for continuity, insulation resistance, polarity and earth fault loop impedance, and every RCD or RCBO is tested to confirm it disconnects as it should. The earthing and the bonding to the gas and water pipes are checked, and put right as part of the job where needed.
The results go on an Electrical Installation Certificate (EIC), which records what was installed and every reading. Work is to BS 7671, the IET Wiring Regulations.
A rewire is notifiable under Part P of the Building Regulations. A registered installer self-certifies the work and notifies building control for you, and you receive a Building Regulations compliance certificate. Locally, building control is Bracknell Forest for Sandhurst and Bracknell, Surrey Heath for Camberley, and the Royal Borough of Windsor and Maidenhead for Ascot.
What you are left with
- New cable to every point, in the safe zones or protected, and through the joists rather than over them.
- A consumer unit with 30 mA RCD protection and a circuit chart in the door.
- Sockets and switches where you want them, agreed before first fix.
- The Electrical Installation Certificate, with the test results for every circuit.
- The Building Regulations compliance certificate. Keep both with the house paperwork; a buyer’s solicitor will ask for them.
Good to know
Rewires- Plan the sockets now. Adding one at first fix is easy. Adding one after decorating means cutting into a finished wall.
- Walk round with a pen before the survey and mark where the beds, desks, TV and kitchen worktops will go.
- Every room has to be reachable, including the loft and the cupboard under the stairs.
- Smoke and heat alarms can be wired in at the same time. Mains-powered, interlinked alarms are the norm in new work.
- Think about the lighting. Downlights, two-way switching and outside lights are simplest while the floors are up.
- Keep both certificates. You will be asked for them when you sell.
How do I know if my house needs a rewire?
Rubber or lead-sheathed cable, no RCD protection, round-pin sockets, black rubber or fabric-covered flex and a long history of alterations are the usual signs. The surest answer is an EICR, which tests the wiring and records its condition circuit by circuit.
Can we stay in the house while it is rewired?
Usually, yes. The work moves through the house in an order agreed with you, rooms are cleared and sheeted as we go, and the power is off while circuits are being changed over. The programme that comes with the quote shows how it will run.
How long does a rewire take?
It depends on the size of the house, how easy it is to get under the floors and into the loft, and whether the rewire is full or partial. Rather than guess, we survey the house and send a written programme with the quote.
Will I need to redecorate afterwards?
Expect to. Chases in the walls are filled and floorboards refixed, but filled chases still need finishing and painting. The quote sets out what making good includes, so you can line up a plasterer or decorator.
What certificates will I get?
An Electrical Installation Certificate with the test results for every circuit, and a Building Regulations compliance certificate. A rewire is notifiable under Part P, and the notification to building control is made for you.
Related work
Often done alongside
With the floors up and the walls open, a rewire is the easiest time to change the board, add sockets and alarms, and get the lighting right.
- 01Consumer unitsA steel board with RCD and surge protection for the new circuits.Consumer units
- 03EICRs and testingFind out what condition the wiring is in before you decide.EICRs
- 05LightingDownlights, pendants, dimmers and outside lights, wired in at first fix.Lighting
- 07Sockets and additionsExtra sockets, smoke and heat alarms and extractor fans.Sockets and additions
Rewires in Sandhurst, Camberley, Bracknell and Ascot
Registration and standards
- Scheme NAPIT registered Registered electrical installer
- Licence 3889228 TrustMark Check the register
- Standard Work to BS 7671 The IET Wiring Regulations
- Building Regulations Part P notified Notifiable work reported to building control
Get in touch
Send us a photo of the job.
A photo of the fuse board, the fault or the room, sent on WhatsApp, is often the quickest way to start. Or call, or use the enquiry form and we will come back to you.
- 01A photo of the fuse board, or of the problem
- 02Your postcode, so we know where the job is
- 03A sentence on what you would like done